Lying in the shadow of PacBell Park, the 21st Amendment successfully works a utility player role: pre- and post-game watering hole, casual California grill restaurant and serious microbrewery.

From June through October, game crowds are large and boisterious but civil; the Bud-in-a-plastic-cup crew congregates at purpose-built money-traps closer to the stadium. The kitchen ekes by with pub basics -- a good hamburger and tasty pizzas-for-one, but stumbles on higher-concept fare: Hangar steak, okay, but sweet-potato straw fries? Don't bother with the pasta. The beer ranges from workmanlike to ethereal -- you won't be disappointed by anything, but some glasses are more impressive than others. The Cut Street Pilsner is everything that a summer brew should be while the North Star Red balances malt caramel with just the right amount of hop bitter.. The space is rough-hewn and open (raw wood everywhere) that can play light and airy to bright summer days and warm and cozy to cold winter nights. Don't miss the upstairs loft where you can usually find a seat (even on the most crowded game days) and while away your time with table games or darts.

September 17, 2003 02:03 PM